Day Trentadue (32) – August 15 – Roma October 17, 2008

 

 

 

 

Enjoying the warm water and sights of the Mediterranean Sea

Our visit to the beach just 20 km from our B&B last night was far to brief and we decided to return in the morning.  Mary had suggested we try to find a parking spot close to a small, well marked path to the beach.  If we were in sight of the path, we could give the “north African gentleman” a few Euro to keep an eye on our vehicle.  We had not experienced any difficulties with thefts from our vehicle so far on our trip, but thought this was no time to challenge that record.  As we approached the beach we realized that the public holiday had driven the locals to the beach to enjoy the 29 – 31 C temperatures next to the water.  Our good fortune found us a parking spot directly across from the gentleman and we gave him a few coins and headed to the beach.  It was busy, but it wasn’t difficult to find an area to spread our towels and a few small chairs we borrowed from Mary.  Jessica and Andrew disappeared into the waves and left the adults to alternately watch over the passports etc.  Once again, the water was the perfect temperature for spending extended periods jumping in and body surfing on the waves.Ironically, despite the beach being covered in bathing suits, there was a constant parade of immigrants from warmer climates, clothed literally from head to toe, selling towels, trinkets, etc. You can’t imagine the climate they are accustomed to that would have them wearing anything but shorts and a T-shirt.

 

Mary had recommended this particular beach because it is located directly in front of a large estate owned and maintained by the state and therefore immaculately kept.  After a few hours rinsed off under some solar heated showers and headed into Rome.

 

Once in Rome we parked back along the Tiber again and used our tour bus pass to take us to the ancient heart of Rome. 

 

Jessica, Andrew and Jeff directly in front of the Circus Maximus with the Palatine Hill in the background

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started at the Palatine Hill that overlooked the Circus Maximus.  Following the guide book, we walked through the remains of the emperor’s palaces.  With a little bit of imagination you can picture lavish, marble lined rooms scattered with fountains and reflecting pools.  As you look at the foundations for some of the larger  rooms you remember the movies such as Ben Hurr where Hollywood portrayed the typical life in these palaces.

 

Buildings on the Palatine Hill

 

 

 

 

 

The museum also provides a glimpse into the early settlements that inhabited the Palatine Hill. It was here that Jeff discovered that the time spent at the beach in the morning had turned his front into another source of “global warming”.  As he lifted his shirt to show Deana a few feet away, Jessica (some 30 feet away) let out a shriek at the ruby red site. (Fortunately a thick layer of Vitamin E cream before bed eliminated any pain and prevented significant peeling).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fountain on the Palatine Hill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 From the Palatine Hill it’s a short walk past the Arch of Constantine to the Colosseum.

 

The Arch of Constantine

 

Andrew, Deana and Jess in the Colosseum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Built over 2000 years ago it is amazing to walk through this structure and imagine it filled with 50,000 people cheering on the gladiator contests that took place here.  One guide book pointed out  that a canvas awning was pulled across the upper walls of the Colosseum to produce the “first domed stadium”.   Without the floor, it is possible to see the underground passages that held the caged animals and criminals that were pitted against the gladiators in a battle to the death.  They even had elevators to lift the animals to the arena floor. 

 

 

 

The Colosseum without the floor

 

 

The Via Sacre in the Roman Forum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the Colosseum we entered the Roman Forum and walked along the cobblestones of the Via Sacre through the center of ancient Rome. 

 

 

 

The Arch of Titus in the Forum

Once again you looked around at the structures that remain and marvelled at the architectural and engineering skills of the Romans. 

 

Jeff and Andrew in the Forum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Other parts of our trip had shown us wonderful historical sites but they had been from eras that used 4 digits.  Here we were standing in buildings that were constructed in the 500 years before to 500 years after the birth of Christ.  Definitely an unusual feeling.  You could barely resist the urge to yell out “TOGA Party”. 

 

 

 

An arch to the side of the central nave in the Basilica in the Forum

 

 

 

 

 

Roman Forum

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

Trevi Fountain

 

 

 

We wandered out of the Forum and headed towards the Trevi fountain in search of a restaurant for dinner.  We found a nice little place with outside seating on a narrow street just a few blocks from the fountain.  No sooner than we had placed our order, we felt a few drops of rain so we moved inside and watched as people scurried for cover, unprepared for the surprise rainshower.  Fortunately it was a brief shower and by the time we finished dinner the paving stones were dry and a large crowd was assembled at the Trevi Fountain.  Possibly overhyped, still the Trevi Fountain is yet another testament to the Roman’s ability to take something as simple as a fountain and transform it into a work of art and another display of the abundant supply of water available to Rome.  Where ever you go, there are outdoor fountains providing cool, clear water.  We frequently used these to refill our aluminum water bottles.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Trentuno (31) – August 14 – Roma

We started our first full day in Rome with a very enjoyable chat around the dining room table with Mary and Mario.  We learned a great deal about the Italian political scene and the 13 political parties that make it very difficult for anyone to gain a majority.  Mario suggested that we park in the area near the Circus Maximus, just below the Palatine Hill.  

Circus Maximum taken from the Palatine Hill

Piazza Barberini and one of Rome's countless fountains

We had decided that we would get a two day pass on one of the many double decker buses that continually loop around the main attractions in the heart of Rome.  This would give us a good overview of the sights, with some narration, as well as provide a means to travel from one location to another without having to learn the local transit system.  This turned out to be a good approach.  After completing the circuit we stopped at St. Peter’s Square and headed off to see what the lines were like for the Vatican Museum (and the Sistine Chapel).  As we turned each corner, getting closer to the doors, we couldn’t believe our good fortune.  Until we noticed a street sign that contained the closing times/days for the Museum.  Although August 15 is a very large holiday and apparently the Vatican Museum thinks it’s so big it deserves two days.  So it was closed.  From there we headed back to St. Peter’s and made our way through the security screening and “modesty” checkers and into the church.  If you’ve ever wondered how strictly they enforce the rules regarding covering the knees and no bare shoulders, picture that they have two people at a time standing there doing nothing but checking the attire of the tourists and turning back anyone who doesn’t meet the guidelines.

Inside St. Peter’s it’s easy to misjudge the size of this temple to catholicism.  The guide book pointed out that it is over 300 feet long.  As you look up to the lettering high above you it is hard to believe that each letter is 7 feet tall.  There are hundreds of people inside the basilica but it doesn’t seem crowded. 

Looking up past the Alter to the inside of St. Peter's dome

The main alter is found at the “crossing” the intersection of the nave and the transept (which form the characteristic cross shape in many churches).  This structure alone is 7 stories tall.

After viewing the main interior, we descended into the crypt to see where many past popes have been laid to rest, including the late John Paul II.

We then made our way back to our car and experienced true Rome driving as we made our way to the Mediterranean Sea for a quick dip before dinner.  Our B&B hosts had recommended a small cantina across the street and once again we were treated to an excellent meal and another test of our limited understanding of Italian.  It is important to note that the French/German/Italian Translation book that we had been using throughout our trip had somehow managed to get bound with approximately 50 pages missing.  Of course those pages included the items most likely to be found on a menu in Italia.